In Budapest, you will get to the synagogue five minutes past closing time and the guard with the gun will tell you, in no uncertain words, you are not allowed. At the Gellert baths, to have the privilege of bathing under an art noveau dome, you first have to get hopelessly lost in a rabbit-warren of dark, tiled corridors with no signs. The heat will be inescapable on Castle Hill, bouncing off the colourful tiled roof of the Matthias Church, reflecting off the gnarled cobblestones. You will be ripped off on the worlds' shortest and most underwhelming cable car ride. Despite this, the artificial waves in the open air pool at Gellert will smash you against a wall of water, making you squeal, making you a child again. A guide will show you around the Fine Art Museum, talking about 1992 when the Iron Curtain had only recently come down and because she was desperate to see the world, she hitchhiked all the way to Munich for the Oktoberfest. There'll be dobos cake, tins of paprika, and an architecturally schizophrenic castle overrun with ivy leaves and a statue of Bela Lugosi on the corner. Whatever happens, there will be something about Budapest that draws you back.
♥ Jak Chapel before tourist group ♥
♥ Jak Chapel after tourist group ♥
♥ Next Stop: Salzburg, Austria ♥